FISH COOKED in PARCHMENT with ORANGE, SESAME, and GINGER

Baking in parchment is a foolproof and healthful way to cook fish, leaving it moist and always delicious. Even the most delicate fish never seems to be dry when prepared this way, and it comes to the table with style. If you’re having company, prepare the packets an hour or two in advance, then preheat the oven when you’re ready. This recipe can also be scaled down to a single serving faster than you can say takeout. ¼ cup low-sodium soy sauce 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice 1 tablespoon unseasoned rice vinegar 2 teaspoons fish sauce 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil 1 tablespoon minced or grated peeled ginger 8 shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and thinly sliced 4 (6-ounce) skinless white fish fillets (sea bass, cod, or halibut) 1 teaspoon sea salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 oranges, thinly sliced (12 slices) 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro 4 scallions, white and light green parts only, thinly sliced on the bias 1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. 2. In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, orange juice, rice vinegar, fish sauce, and sesame oil. Stir in the minced ginger and sliced mushrooms and set aside. 3. Season both sides of the fish with salt and pepper. 4. Tear off an 18-inch sheet of parchment paper and fold it in half. Draw half a large heart on the paper. Cut the paper so you have a full heart when the paper is unfolded. On the left side of the heart, place 3 of the orange slices, then put one fish fillet on top. Spoon ¼ of the sauce on top of the fish. Fold the other half of the parchment heart over the fish. Seal the package by making overlapping folds, one on top of the other, about 10 folds, until the opposite corner of the folded edge is reached. Twist the last fold at the end of the paper several times to make a tight seal and tuck it under the packet. Repeat for the remaining fish fillets. 5. Place the packets on a baking sheet and bake until the paper turns brown around the edge and puffs up, about 10 to 12 minutes. 6. Transfer each package to a plate. Carefully cut an X in the top of each to allow the steam to escape. For the full visual effect, cut each package open at the table. Top each serving with cilantro and scallions.

BISTRO-STYLE MUSSELS 

Mussels have many things going for them: they are inexpensive, quick to cook, and a good source of both omega-3 fatty acids and vitamin B12. This is a classic preparation with a twist: extra-virgin olive oil takes the place of the butter that French recipes call for. Buy mussels from a dealer who can assure you of their freshness, get them home quickly, put them in a bowl, place a damp towel on them to keep them from drying out, and put them in the refrigerator. Cook them as soon as possible—certainly within a day of purchase. Scrub them well with a stiff brush to clean them. 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 shallots, finely chopped Pinch of sea salt Freshly ground black pepper 2 garlic cloves, pressed and allowed to sit for 10 minutes 1 Turkish bay leaf or ⅓ of a California bay leaf 1 teaspoon dried whole thyme leaves 1 cup dry (white) vermouth or dry white wine 2 pounds mussels, scrubbed 3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves Crusty whole-grain bread 1. In a large pot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the shallots, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of black pepper and sauté for 1 minute. Add the garlic and continue sautéing for another minute. Add the bay leaf, thyme, and wine and bring to a boil. Add the mussels, cover the pot, and cook for about 3 to 4 minutes or until most of the mussels open. (Discard any that have not opened.) 2. Transfer the mussels and cooking liquid to a large bowl and scatter the chopped parsley over them. Serve with crusty bread to soak up the flavorful liquid.

NIGELLA’S EASIEST MIRIN SALMON 

Nigella Lawson’s recipe for mirin-glazed salmon became an instant classic. It’s a foolproof way to prepare salmon fillets so that they turn out perfectly cooked and totally delicious. I’m indebted to her for it. To make it consistent with the nutritional philosophy of this book, I’ve cut the amount of sugar she calls for. ¼ cup mirin 2 tablespoons evaporated cane sugar ¼ cup low-sodium soy sauce 4 (4-ounce) skinless salmon fillets, about 1 inch thick 2 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar 1 to 2 scallions, white and light green parts only, thinly sliced lengthwise 1. Whisk the mirin, sugar, and soy sauce together in a bowl until the sugar is dissolved. Place the salmon in a shallow dish and pour the marinade over the fish. Marinate for 3 minutes, then turn over and marinate the other side for an additional 2 minutes. 2. Heat a nonstick pan over medium-high heat. When hot, remove the fish from the marinade (reserve the marinade) and place it presentation-side down in the pan. Cook, undisturbed, for 2 minutes. Turn the salmon over, pour the reserved marinade over it, and cook for another 2 minutes. 3. Remove the fillets to serving plates. Add the rice vinegar to the mixture in the pan and cook to reduce it by about half. Pour the dark, sweet, salty glaze over the salmon and top with the scallion strips. Serve with rice or noodles as you wish, and consider putting some pickled ginger on the table too (available from Japanese food stores and online)